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Compared with its famous neighbor Marseilles, Aix isn't exactly cheap where eating out is concerned, but it can be worth paying that little bit more for a taste of the town's old-world charm, the perfect accompaniment to a host of carefully composed menus offering a wide range of exquisitely prepared dishes. Aix boasts an impressive number of restaurants, either tucked away in the shade of narrow streets or more prominently positioned in the better-known squares, which offer cuisine from places as far-flung as Asia, the Orient, South America and of course, Provence. In addition, the enchanting setting of Aix's Sainte-Victoire mountain which was painter Cézanne's main source of inspiration and provides a stunning backdrop to good local fare served in friendly surroundings.
In the heart of the old town, Place des Cardeurs' many restaurants present diners with a tough choice: there's Chez Maxime, ideal for those partial to charbroiled meat; the Bouchon Provençal, which champions traditional Provençal cuisine with a modern twist, and Aligot, which proudly presents the rich cuisine of the Auvergne region of France.
Most of the restaurants, generally at their busiest in the evenings, are situated a little further south, towards Cours Mirabeau, Rue de la Couronne and the streets running on from it (Rue des Tanneurs and Rue de Lieutaud). A visit to L'Acteur is a must: experience first hand the chef's masterful interpretation of fish and seafood-based dishes. Or, sample the mouth-watering delicacies cooked over a wood fire in Flambée des Bourras' pleasant vaulted interior: they're also prepared using produce of the very highest quality. Meanwhile, inventiveness is the order of the day in the Bistrot Latin, which, despite having a somewhat limited menu, offers dishes that are prepared according to what's available at the local market. Another place to head for is Le Saf, which offers particularly tasty, simple, African-style dishes. Finally, if you're into sushi and other Japanese food, the talented chef at Yamato will not disappoint.
One street you can't miss on your way to Cours Mirabeau is Rue Espariat, whose long-standing pizzeria Chez Jo offers an amazing choice of delicious pizzas cooked before your eyes, Italian-style salads and traditional recipes that form part of the local culinary heritage. The next street, Rue Doumer, is home to the Amphitryon, a different kind of restaurant. Managed by two immensely talented chefs, Bruno Ungaro and Patrice Lesné, this gourmet restaurant serves good, traditional cuisine to consistently high standards. Cours Mirabeau, Aix's very own Champs-Elysées, is home to legendary brasserie now a listed building-the Deux Garçons, which has occupied this spot since 1748. The pleasure of sitting out on the brasserie's terrace to see and be seen while tasting some of its light, aromatic cuisine is well worth stopping for!
Icône is situated at the start of Rue Mistral (one of the roads running at right angles to the town's main avenue) and offers perfectly executed, Mediterranean-inspired cuisine is served in surroundings entirely devoted to film stars and memorabilia.
Linked to Cours Mirabeau by Passage Agard, the Place du palais de Justice (Law Courts), is another spot you're bound to pass through while visiting the town's historic center. You can sample local cuisine inside Verdun or on its famous terrace; the Table Marocaine offers North African and oriental specialties, while the Platanos will take you on a culinary tour of the Aegean Islands. Not to be forgotten, Asian delicacies from Vietnam are served in Cay-Tam, and those from India can be tasted in Nirvana.
Dining out in Aix-en-Provence is at its most refined in the Clos de la Violette restaurant, set in beautiful surroundings overlooking the Sextius area, which is situated on the fringes of Aix's old town. Gourmets and indeed anyone who enjoys good food agree that the food served here is orchestrated in an original, almost perfect fashion by chef Jean-Marc Banzo.
The town's other well-known eateries are dotted around the surrounding countryside. Montagne Ste-Victoire (Sainte-Victoire mountain) has several restaurants nestled at the foot of its southern slope. Whether you hanker for Mr Bergès' Relais Sainte-Victoire a splendid mas (Provençal house or farm) or Anne Carbonel's country-style hideaway Puyfond, both are proud to serve authentic, local cuisine that owes its flavor and character to the region's abundant sunshine. The mountain's north side is home to a more laid-back restaurant, Chez le Garde, a former bastide (Provençal country house). Its country setting, on the way out of Vauvenargues village, is the ideal place to meet up with friends for a game of boules (bowls) before enjoying the place's simple, exceptionally tasty cuisine.
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