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Eating in Trinidad can intensify the sensation of traveling through another era. The city's restaurants are located in mansions once inhabited by leading Trinidadian families of the 18th and 19th centuries. These old houses retain not only their original names and architecture but also the period furniture, ceramics and other decorations. Some of these restaurants, such as Don Antonio, are divided into several reserved rooms, formerly bedrooms. Others, including Mesón del Regidor, preserve some of their 18th-century features while also adopting decorations and atmosphere appropriate to their particular cuisines.
In choosing a restaurant in the old part of the city, it is important to consider not only the dishes served but also location. Located on the little square where the city was founded, Top of the Cove is known for its chicken and for its Moorish architecture. The Restaurante Trinidad Colonial serves fish, seafood and various international dishes. This is one of the most elegant spaces in the city thanks to the furniture and architecture. Located in the Cárcel Real, La Galera specializes in beef. The Plaza Mayor offers its Langosta Mariposa (Butterfly Lobster) in a huge 19th-century house with wide stairways and a lush courtyard.
Bars in the city's historic center offer a large selection of Cuban and international drinks, and musicians who play traditional Cuban melodies. These sites also retain their colonial atmosphere. Canchánchara (La) is the most famous of them all, located in one of Trinidad's oldest houses. The bar is characterized not only by its namesake drink but also by the ceramic vessel in which it's served, by the traditional music played here and by the artisans who weave and twist tobacco leaves in the corners. Another popular spot, Casa de la Trova occupies an 18th-century building and features music by Sindo Garay, Manuel Corona and other musicians in that tradition. And sometimes it doesn't matter that only the walls of a building remain, as is the case with Segarte and Lleonci. A few arches and columns and few musicians are enough to recharge these places with life.
For lighter meals, try the more modern area of the city. The best-known cafes include Las Begonias and Rapiazul, but one can also eat in private homes that take Cuban pesos and serve sandwiches, pizzas and natural juices.
On the outskirts of Trinidad there are ranches, such as Casa de la Gallega, and estates like María Dolores and Codina that serve Creole food. These places preserve the best traditions of the Cuban countryside. You'll enjoy pork cooked on skewers or on the grill, Cuban music, cock fights, and rides horses or in boats. One of these ranches, El Cubano, features its own variety of catfish.
Near the city, in El Valle de los Ingenios, there are two mansions that have become restaurants, Manaca-Iznaga and Guachinango. Decorated according to 19th-century customs, these houses preserve their original architecture and furnishings.
Most of the restaurants and cafes near Ancón and María Aguilar beaches are located within hotels. Costa Sur restaurants specializing in fish and shellfish include Arrecife (El) and Lina. Or try a hotel bar such as Manta (La), located in the lobby near the pool. The renowned restaurant of the Hotel Ancón is Olaya, where you can choose a lobster from the tank and watch the chef prepare it. Also try Bahía de Casilda and Las Conchas. And at night try Los Corsarios and Coco bar.
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