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1. The Promenade des Anglais and the Colline du Château
Given that these two sites appear prolifically on postcards of Nice, it’s certainly worth your while to see the real thing. The Promenade des Anglais follows the shoreline for several kilometers and the vast hillside parkland of the Colline du Château (Castle Hill) overlooks the magnificent Baie des Anges. It’ll only take half an hour or so to complete the route, although there are many distractions that could extend it into a leisurely stroll, such as a stop on the beach or a break in the shade of pine trees.
Starting from the Albert I Gardens, cross the road towards the shore and you’ll find yourself on the famous Promenade des Anglais. The wide walkway is a favorite place to stroll, ride bikes or roller-blade; down below, the pebbled beaches (both public and private) are great for sunbathing and swimming. Keep heading in the direction of the green hill—the Colline du Château. If you look hard enough, you may be able to make out the fountain on the hillside, which is lit up at night. Continue on until you reach the Rauba Capeu human sundial at the foot of hotels La Pérouse and Suisse. Follow the pavement on your left for around 50 meters, leading you to the bottom of the stairway to the Colline du Château itself. You can always pay to take the lift a little further on, but if you climb the steps you can explore the Bellanda Tower and its little Maritime Museum. The park on the hill exhibits many fine examples of local flora, and you can take in all the different views over the town – the Baie des Anges, the crowds of red-tiled rooftops in the old town, the port and Mont-Boron. Kids will relish the chance to go tobogganing and play in the park. Don’t look for the Château though...it was destroyed in the reign of Louise XIV. The only ruins are those of a medieval cathedral.
2. A walk through old Nice
Discover the most picturesque part of Nice by taking a walk through the old town. The intertwining web of narrow little streets, colorful old houses and little boutiques reveal the charming soul of the city.
Approach old Nice from Place Garibaldi, passing by the Grand Café de Turin, renowned for it excellent seafood. Take Rue Pairolière into the heart of the old town. This long, narrow street, lined with lots of little shops, is incredibly lively during the day and perfect for a little detour to buy some traditional products from Nice and Provence (olives, herbs, etc.), or to sample local specialties like farcis (vegetable parcels stuffed with meat) or socca (a pancake made from chickpea flour). The street opens out into Place Saint-François, the square where the fish market is held.
Leaving Place Saint Francois behind, take Rue Droite and look for the entrance to the Palais Lascaris on your right. A visit to this large Genoese mansion house, former residence of the Lascaris dynasty, uncovers the glory of the baroque movement, of which Vieux-Nice offers many fine examples. On leaving the palace, continue along Rue Droite until intersected by a large steep road—Rue Rossetti—which will take you down to the square of the same name, where the 17th century Cathédrale Sainte-Réparate stands tall. You can also savor the delicious ice cream at the renowned Fenocchio, or relax in one of the many café terraces. By taking a right at the cathedral down the little side street, Rue Gallo, you will find the false door, behind which is a vaulted passageway and staircase that looks out onto Boulevard Jean Jaurès.
Turn left and continue down Rue du Marché where you can buy souvenirs and pottery. The street ends in the pretty Place du Palais-de-Justice. Don’t cross the square but take an immediate left into Rue de la Préfecture and on to some of the old town’s most welcoming pubs and beautiful signs and photographs of Martinetti. Keep going as far as the intersection on your right and go down Rue de la Poissonnerie, where you will chance upon the charming and unassuming little church of Sainte-Rita – the patron saint of lost causes. At the end of the street, the famous Cours Saleya beckons, loved by the locals for its sun-kissed café terraces and lively, colorful fruit and vegetable market. On Mondays you can visit the flea market, but any day of the week you can enjoy strolling around the bustling stalls. Right at the end you’ll be able to see, and smell, the blooms at the flower market.
3. The Cimiez district
An attractive hill in the very heart of Nice, just north of the old town and bordering the east of the city center, Cimiez is a stylish residential district, that is both stately and calm. Many of the houses exude the charm of the belle époque and are complemented by little gardens. The district is home to an ancient archaeological site and museum, concealed in the delightful park where you can also find the Matisse Museum and the Franciscan monastery. The Chagall Museum is nestled at the foot of the hill.
Bus numbers 15, 17 and 22 will drop you off at Cimiez’s Roman amphitheaters which are right in the middle of the vast parkland. Although the big park tends to be overrun by bicycles, roller-bladers and soccer players on Wednesday afternoons and weekends, it is a haven of peace and quiet during the week. It has a wonderful olive grove and beautiful pathways that will inspire an exploratory stroll.
Ancient culture enthusiasts may also be interested in the Archaeological Museum, where you can see collections dating from the bronze age up to the beginning of the Middle Ages. All around the museum, paved alleyways, Roman amphitheaters and thermal baths from the 3rd to 5th centuries are open to explorers.
The hillside park also shelters the Matisse Museum. Within a Genoese villa, the painter’s work from the beginning of his career to the end of his days is displayed alongside some of his personal belongings.
Cross the park until you reach the Franciscan monastery, bordered by a magnificent Italian garden. This spiritual center, dating from the 17th century, presents an array of murals and works of art that trace Franciscan life from the 13th to the 18th centuries. The adjoining cemetery is the final resting place of the two masters of color, Henri Matisse and Raoul Dufy, whose tombstones can be visited.
Heading back towards the city center (take bus number 15 from the monastery square), stop off at the Marc Chagall Biblical Message Museum. Designed by architect André Hermant, the building is both sober and modern in appeal, set amid olive, holm oak and cypress trees. The museum contains over 600 works of a biblical theme, as well as enormous canvasses, mosaics, sculptures, tapestries and superb glassworks.
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