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There are no more than a handful of real tourist attractions in Phnom Penh and with a bit of dedication these can all be seen in course of one or two days. Those who stay in Phnom Penh for longer do so to soak up the anarchic energy of a city on the fast track from devastation to who knows where.
At less than five kilometers from end to end, Phnom Penh is not a large city. Independent travelers can easily reach the sights within the city limits by one of the ubiquitous motorcycle taxis that swarm around the tourist hot spots. Guided tours in air-conditioned mini-buses or taxis are available from Capitol . Alternatively, take one of the newly refurbished red and black pedicabs (cyclos) and enjoy the commentary from one of the English-speaking drivers as you cruise through the city traffic by pedal power.
Phnom Penh Highlights
A full day’s sightseeing in Phnom Penh might start with a typical Khmer breakfast of fried noodles at one of the busy street stalls which line Sothearos Boulevard just north of the Royal Palace. From here you can watch the sunrise over the Tonle Sap River (if you get up early enough) and enjoy the sight of hundreds of Phnom Penhoise doing their morning tai chi together on the riverfront. The Royal Palace opens its door to the public at 7am, and it is best to get in early, thus avoiding the crowds and catching the opportunity to photograph the Silver Pagoda in the warm soft light of morning.
Exiting the Palace grounds you will find yourself on Street 240 facing south. Heading through the park on the other side of the street you come to Wat Botum, a typical example of a Cambodian Buddhist temple full of friendly young monks who will eagerly show you around, if only to practice their English.
For souvenir and handcraft shopping the Russian Market is your best bet. Some distance to the south of the city you will need to catch a motor cycle taxi or pedicab, which will cost around USD0.50 from the Palace. Whichever way your driver takes you to the market, you will definitely have to pass by the huge red sandstone Independence Monument commemorating Cambodia’s independence from France in 1953. Those in search of culinary adventures might enjoy a lunch of fried spring rolls or a bowl of noodle soup from one of the market stalls. If you want to eat in a restaurant, though, you will need to head back north to the center of town for lunch.
The National Museum, with its shady internal courtyard and large breezy rooms, is a great place to muse over artifacts from Cambodia’s history while sheltering from the afternoon heat. Of course, no visit to Phnom Penh is complete without climbing the steps to the top of Wat Phnom, the temple which is the symbol of Phnom Penh. After a long day’s sight-seeing, you probably deserve a drink, and in the north of town there is no finer place than the Elephant Bar at the five-star Hotel Le Royal. While there are plenty of moto-taxis that will drive you the 500 meters along Street 92 to the hotel, why not go in style-on the back of Sam Bo, a friendly elephant who hangs out at the bottom of Wat Phnom offering rides to tourists.
Remembering the Horrors of History
No one should visit Cambodia without taking at least one moment to consider the horrors of the country’s recent past. Embroiled in civil war for more than a quarter of a century, Phnom Penh is only just beginning to adjust to the idea of a lasting peace. Though there is a veneer of normality in the city, you do not have to look far to see reminders of a more violent past-the abandoned check points on the streets; the burnt out houses; or the heavily armed security forces.
Unfortunately for those interested in finding out more about Cambodia’s recent past, there is no museum of modern history in Phnom Penh, but there are a number of relevant sites which are worth visiting. The major memorial to the victims of the Khmer Rouge is at the Killing Fields of Choeng Ek-a former concentration camp just outside Phnom Penh, where tens of thousands of dissidents and undesirables where put to their deaths from 1975 to 1979. In Phnom Penh itself is the Toul Sleng Genocide Museum, a former high school, which was converted by the Khmer Rouge into prison and torture center. Today it stands as a memorial and a research center dedicated to documenting the atrocities of the Pol Pot era.
Other relevant sites of interest include the French Embassy and the Hotel Le Royal, both of which feature in the film, The Killing Fields, as enclaves for foreigners and terrified Cambodians during the last days before the Khmer Rouge captured Phnom Penh in 1975. Commemorating the demise of the Khmer Rouge is the Vietnamese-Cambodian Soldiers Monument which stands in honor of the liberation of Phnom Penh by a Vietnamese-backed force in 1979.
Though the war is over and the process of disarmament has begun, access to military hardware in Cambodia is still incredibly liberal, even by third world standards. Light arms are bought and sold in the markets and security forces carry assault rifles, which are often left lackadaisically on a bench or by the roadside while their owner enjoys a midday nap. An ironic flip side to the legacy of the Khmer Rouge is that tourists can test fire military weaponry at a shooting range near Phnom Penh where under-paid soldiers have converted their deadly past into a lucrative tourist attraction.
Together these two tours give those new to the city a glimpse of the glory and violence of Phnom Penh’s history, as well as the struggles and beauty of its present.
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