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WALKING TO PLAZA BOLÍVAR
We recommend Parque Glorias Patrias as the starting point. This way you can walk through traditional Mérida up to the Plaza Bolívar area with its interesting architectural, religious, and cultural appeals.
Parque Glorias Patrias is located on Calle 37 and Calle 36, Avenida 2 and Avenida 4, and has two wide squares with leafy trees and cozy benches. These squares are in honor of the national heroes José Antonio Páez and Vicente Campo Elías, and retain the quiet atmosphere of yesteryear, despite the constant flow of traffic. Since this place is highly visited by tourists, you will find guides and agencies eager to organize an interesting trip around and outside of the city.
At this point, Avenida Urdaneta, that before was Avenida Andrés Bello, receives the new name of Avenida 3. Walking on this road you will arrive at Calle 29 and the small Plaza Rangel del Llano. To the right you will see Heladería Coromoto (ice cream parlor) in a building which was recently remodeled in a colonial style. They open at 2:15pm, and their walls are covered with the names of over 620 naturally flavored ice creams they offer daily!
You are now in a high density area of Mérida, with old houses, narrow streets, many pedestrians and vehicles, and buildings with traces of past victories. You will also find a wide variety of stores, guesthouses, inexpensive hotels, and old large houses converted to small malls or shopping arcades. The most colorful and traditional life in Mérida can be seen here. Take your time, walk different routes, go in the stores, listen to the warm and friendly answers to the questions you ask, and watch the passers-by and street peddlers in their daily works. Be careful: do not take public transportation without finding out the route before. All the vehicles show their final destination but they do not show the streets by which they are going to drive. The bus might go to many different places before you arrive to the place you want, so it could be more practical to walk.
A few streets ahead, on Calle 23, you will see Plaza Bolívar to your right; this square is the heart of the most valuable collection of architectural works of Mérida. To your left you have the Rectorado de la Universidad de Los Andes (rector's office of the university), the Facultad de Odontología (the dentist faculty) and the Museo Arqueológico Gonzalo Rincón Gutiérrez (archaeological museum). In the rector's office building, the Seminario (seminary) operated until 1810 when it became Real y Pontificia Universidad de San Buenaventura de Mérida de los Caballeros, now Universidad de Los Andes.
In front of the square is Palacio de Gobierno or Poder Ejecutivo of Mérida (the state's executive), a notable building created by the architect Manuel Mujica Millán. It was inaugurated on October 9th, 1959, and was built on the site of what used to be the old city council, and the barracks and the house that once belonged to General Campo Elías. Its halls now house valuable works of art. And on the opposite side of the Plaza, you will see the blue construction of the Palacio Las Cinco Águilas Blancas or Poder Legislativo (the state's legislative power).
On the same Avenida 3, but walking to Calle 22, you will see Casa de la Cultura Juan Félix Sánchez, a colonial building in honor of the "architect of the Andes." You can see marvelous handicraft works, as well as cultural and artistic events. Don't miss this fantastic opportunity.
On the opposite side of Plaza Bolívar, Avenida 4, there are three important religious buildings. To the right side it is Palacio Arzobispal (archbishop's palace), a beautiful Renaissance-style construction that was finished in 1951; it has valuable works of art, including the pictures of the bishops of Mérida. To the left of this palace you will find Museo Arquidiocesano, which houses not only religious items but a wide array of objects from old coins, to a bell from 909, to a native mummy. Finally, the last building is Catedral Metropolitana de Mérida (cathedral), one of the most beautiful temples in Venezuela. Its last restoration was completed in 1958.
Nestled in the heart of these buildings, Plaza Bolívar takes up a big space. See the statue of the Liberator on his horse, which was placed in this square in 1930. The square has beautiful gardens, leafy trees and comfortable benches which make of it a cozy place to walk and relax. It is also the perfect place to rest after walking this interesting tour.
MÉRIDA'S CABLE CAR
Plaza Bolívar is located on Calle 22 and 23. At the end of Calle 24 or 25, toward the east, you will find a wide place called Plaza de Las Heroínas Merideñas, a square that children and parents love because it is the ideal place to play, completely isolated from vehicles. Behind the square there is a valley from which the imposing Sierra Nevada rises up. Mérida's cable car runs tireless by the hillside.
In the center of Plaza de Las Heroínas is a monument in molten metal statues to the five women bravely involved in Simón Bolívar's "Admirable Campaign" when he came to Los Andes in 1813. Around the square are many hotels and guesthouses, restaurants, food stands, and tourist guides. But what really attracts thousands of people to this place is the station for Mérida's Teleférico or cable car. The Teleférico is undoubtedly the most famous tourist attraction in Mérida. And there are two reasons for that: first, because technically it is the longest and highest cable car in the world; it covers 12,5 kilometers and its last station is 4,765 meters above sea level. The other reason is its amazing view!
The starting point is Estación Barinitas, located next to the square; the journey begins 1,625 meters above sea level. At the outside entry you will find one of the tourist information offices of Corporación Merideña de Turismo (CORMETUR) and one of the offices of Instituto Nacional de Parques (INPARQUES). Next to it, you can buy tickets for the trip. Then proceed to the platform, where you will set off for the mountain tops. You are guaranteed to come back overcome with emotion and happiness.
The journey lasts 90 minutes if you do not stop in any of the three intermediate stations where you'll find wonderful outlooks. The total journey consists of four independent stretches with their respective stations. In each station you have to change cabin to continue with the next stretch.
Barinitas—La Montaña stretch:
Crossing a deep valley, you begin the ascent moving away from Mérida and the towns of Ejido and Tabay, until you are surrounded only by mountains. Enjoy this first stretch until you arrive at the second station, La Montaña, 2,542 meters above sea level. Here you can walk a bit and breathe deeply to get accustomed to the increasing altitude. Then you proceed to another cabin.
La Montaña--La Aguada stretch:
You continue your flight rising 910 meters more while the temperature decreases. In this stretch you will feel the majesty of the mountain tops when gazing at El Toro peak to the right, 4,775 meters above sea level. And while you gaze at this peak, you will have arrived to the third station, La Aguada, 3,452 meters above sea level. From this station there is a path that takes you to Laguna Fría. This is an accessible journey that may take only one hour. But you can save it for other day to continue with your flight.
La Aguada--Loma Redonda stretch:
The higher you are, the more impressed you become with the surrounding world and the beautiful views of Cordillera de La Culata and Quebrada de La Fría. From this station, Loma Redonda, you can have a one-hour walk to Laguna del Espejo and Laguna de los Anteojos. Well trained mountaineers start their ascent from here to the above mentioned Pico El Toro, and to El León, 4,743 meters above sea level. This very same station is the starting point for an unforgettable trip to the town Los Nevados, a relic of pre-Hispanic times, which is six hours away by foot or four by mule. You are now 4,050 meters above sea level and close to the end.
Loma Redonda--Pico Espejo stretch:
Though unusual in a tropical country, you are now crossing into the kingdom of ice and snow, which can be seen from July to October. This is also a kingdom of lakes, glaciers, huge rocks and abysses asleep in silence. When you finally arrive at Pico Espejo station, be cautious. You are 4,765 meters above sea level and your body will suffer with any quick movement. Here you will see the big marble sculpture of La Virgen de las Nieves, brought from Italy in 1965. This image is surrounded by a square-viewpoint where you can engrave in your memory indelible images. Only expert and equipped mountain climbers will go to the surrounding peaks like Pico Bolívar, the highest in Venezuela, 5,007 meters above sea level. But for you it is enough to enjoy this world of wonderful landscapes and incredible sensations. You will be able to say you were in heaven.
THE NORTH PART OF THE CITY
From Plaza Bolívar you can begin this journey to the north part of the city along Avenida 3. Between Calles 22 and 21 you will find Centro Cultural Tulio Febres Cordero, venue of cultural and artistic events. You will be able to visit the five halls of Museo de Arte Moderno Juan Astorga Anta (modern art museum), which is part of this area. You can also admire middle-sized sculptures in open spaces.
On the next block of Avenida 3, Casa del General Juan Antonio Paredes houses Museo de Arte Colonial (colonial art museum), a beautiful exhibition in a wonderful place that is worth visiting. Diagonal from here you will find Casa de los Antiguos Gobernadores or Casa Valeri, colonial building that has a picture gallery of Mérida's governors.
On Avenida 4, Calle 20, there is a different architectural work: the modern head office of Biblioteca Bolivariana (Bolivarian library), which has books and documents of the Liberator, as well as relics of the times when was in the Andes. This place is also a museum and exhibition hall.
The last part of this area in the traditional city ends on Calle 13, in which you will find Parque de Las Cinco Repúblicas in the north of the city, which has soil of the Bolivarian countries: Venezuela, Colombia, Ecuador, Perú and Bolivia. It is impossible to continue walking on this side because you will find the deep valley by which rivers Chama and Mucutún pass. For that reason, you must walk on Calle 13 to your left, and you will arrive to Plaza Sucre o de Milla, which is a big square. Iglesia San Juan Bautista, a church constructed in 1894, is on one side. Several colonial houses surround the square. In this square, Avenidas 2 and 3 join in one avenue called Avenida 2, and the road goes to the north.
In both sides of the last stretch of Avenida 2 there are several houses, such as La Nieve de los Andes, advertising and selling sweets like the famous "dulces abrillantados", pride of the cuisine of Mérida. At the end of the avenue you will see the Mariano Picón Salas traffic circle from where two new roads begin: Avenida Hoyada de Milla, which comes out onto the roads to El Páramo and El Valle de La Culata; and, to the left side, Avenida Universidad, which tries to assemble all the services the inhabitants of this university campus may want, such as: walks and parks, stores, fast food and normal food restaurants, ice cream parlors and candy stores, and other appeals.
On Avenida Universidad there is also a big place with a monument in honor of the Cinco Águilas Blancas (five white eagles). This beautiful literary image comes from one of the last native stories known, recovered by Tulio Febres Cordero, writer from Mérida. The story says that the five white eagles "came from the starry sky long time ago", referring to the five peaks of Sierra Nevada, which guard the city and whose current names are, from north to south, El León, El Toro, Humboldt, Bolívar and Espejo.
On the same Avenida Universidad, entering Urbanización Santa María Norte, you will find Parque Beethoven, which is very pleasant and often visited. Besides the musician's bust and the Reloj de Flores (flower clock), the main attraction is the Reloj Beethoven (Beethoven clock), a little house with a bell tower; inside, two little farmers play a different melody from the composer each hour.
Once you have visited Avenida Universidad and its surroundings, return to the beginning of this road and go to Avenida Chorros de Milla (different from Avenida Hoyada de Milla). On this stretch you will find Parque La Isla, with its trees, gardens and water mirrors. Here you will see the modern Centro Internacional de Congresos Mucucharastí (international center for congresses); and also the head office of Corporación de los Andes. This park is a privileged viewpoint from where you can have a wonderful view of Sierra Nevada in a clear day. The perfect end to your journey.
JOURNEY TO THE MOOR
There are moors throughout Mérida, but there is only one "Moor's Route" or "Ruta del Páramo". Not to be missed!
When leaving the city along Avenida Universidad or Avenida Hoyada de Milla-Universidad, and after passing the so called Vuelta de Lola, you will see a side road that goes to La Mucuy Baja and Mucunután. If you like handicrafts, stop in the first of these towns, famous for its traditional works in wood. Then return to Carretera Trasandina and continue your trip.
When you arrive at Llanitos de Tabay, you will see large fields with different vegetables demonstrating how hard this community works. You will soon arrive at Tabay, founded in the 17th century, 11 kilometers from Mérida. This town still has its church and colonial big houses, many of which are now places for accommodations.
A little further on from Tabay you will see the entrance to Pueblo Típico Los Aleros, famous theme park that represents an Andean town of 1930, and revives the customs and traditions of that time. Further on you will find Centro Recreacional Turístico Valle Hermoso with its wide and well-equipped facilities, designed for families to enjoy. There are several outdoor activities.
The next town is Cacute, which was named after the natives who lived in this area, with many sites and interests to tourists.
Along this journey, on the sloping mountainsides you will see farmers cultivating the same terraces or "andenes" that were designed by pre-Hispanic natives. Stone walls and crossed streams enclose pastures. You will frequently see horses and cattle, as well as trout fisheries. Shops for handicrafts, flowers, and food abound, as well as hotels, guesthouses, huts and camps. Good restaurants and small cafes can be found along the road, as well as gas stations, vehicle accessories and traveler items shops. Deep-rooted traditions and modern services coexist in harmony in this Andean medley.
The next town is Escagüey. To the left you will see La Casita de la Miel, where you can buy honey and honey products. 21 kilometers away from Escagüey you will find Mucurubá, nowadays a cattle raising area.
The next town, 12 kilometers ahead, is the important Mucuchíes, which is a native word meaning "cold place," a place where frozen winds run along this valley located between Santo Domingo and La Culata. In the main square of this town, whose last foundation was in 1620, you will see the statues of the indian Tinjacá and Nevado, Bolívar's favorite dog that was trusted to the native's care. Walking on Mucuchíes you will see streets and colonial houses, and you should try the delicious dishes at these unique restaurants. There are many options for accommodations.
From Mucuchíes there are roads to several different lakes, to the thermal waters of La Musui, and to the Observatorio Astrofísico de Llano del Hato (observatory), that can also be reached from Apartaderos.
7 kilometers further on you will arrive to the highest town in Venezuela, San Rafael de Mucuchíes, located 3,140 meters above sea level and founded in 1872. It only has two parallel streets that join themselves at the upper end and continue on Carretera Trasandina. On the joint point you will find the notable stone chapel honoring Our Lady of Coromoto, built by the self-taught architect Juan Félix Sánchez. In front of the chapel is a museum named after the architect and his wife, Epifanía Gil. The great religious architectural and sculpture work by Sánchez is located in El Tisure, a remote town 8 hours away from here, to which you arrive through paths on the mountain. From San Rafael de Mucuchíes there are also roads to several lakes. To visit these lakes you need time, preparation, equipment and often a guide.
At the end of the "journey to the moor", 6 kilometers higher, you will find a town called Apartaderos, whose name makes reference to the many roads that depart from here. This important crossroads offers the visitor a summary of all the existing attractions on the road: landscapes and climate of the bleak upland, church and colonial constructions, trout fishing, handicrafts, cattle, ancient sown fields and all kind of tourist services.
In Apartaderos, the main road forks into two important roads. To the right side, toward the east, there is a beautiful journey that goes to Santo Domingo town and continues descending to the plains of Estado Barinas. When you leave Apartaderos, you will arrive to the wide facilities surrounding Laguna de Mucubají, the starting point for mountain walks suitable for everyone. The 24 kilometers between Apartaderos and Santo Domingo are formed by wide valleys, flowers and high level tourist services, such as the incomparable Hotel Los Frailes, Hotel Moruco y Hotel Resort La Sierra. In Santo Domingo there is La Champiñonera de Santo Domingo, the largest mushroom culture in Latin America. Nearby, there are also the trout breeding facilities of Truchicultura Santo Domingo.
The other national road that starts from Apartaderos toward the northeast goes to Chachopo town and historic Timotes, and continues toward the cities of Valera and Trujillo, in Trujilo state. Finish this journey by covering the 12 kilometers to Pico El Aguila, the highest road point in Venezuela, 4,118 meters above sea level. Here you will find yourself, if the mist allows, on top of the world.
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