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Travelers who want the real Hawaiian experience would do well to stay on Moloka'i. While it has a larger population than neighboring Lana'i, for the most part it has not attracted any high-ticket investors or developers. As a result, it is friendlier, more authentic and more laid-back than any other island. The mainland influence is apparent when one looks at the smooth roads, the clean, modern plumbing and the efficient postal system. However, the island-style decor and relaxed ambience in the hotels is comparable to what you’d find in the more upscale Caribbean or Bahama Out Island resorts.
Hotels are usually on the small side, and while there are definitely some luxurious digs, even the most expensive ones seem to place comfort ahead of glamour. There are just a few hotels, but plenty of B&Bs, guesthouses and condominium complexes are scattered around the island. Average room rates are lower in Moloka'i than on any other Hawaiian island.
Hotels
Hotel Molokai, the longtime favorite of most visitors to the island, is located in downtown Kaunakakai. It is cozy, comfortable and friendly. Molokai Outdoor Adventures is in the lobby, making it convenient for people to rent cars, book trips or get information without leaving the hotel. Not as established but operating on a much larger budget is the Lodge at Molokai Ranch. Located in the tiny town of Maunaloa, this place is very plush in an old-fashioned, hunt-clubby sort of way. This hotel is self-contained, offering everything from gourmet dining to horseback riding to a complete children's program. The lovely Kaluakoi Hotel, located in the resort area of the same name, is the closest thing to a luxury Hawaiian hotel. It has a golf course, a Pacific Rim restaurant and a few shops.
The Pu’u O Hoku Ranch, located on the East End of Moloka'i, offers lodge-style accommodations on a 14,000-acre organic ranch. The lodge has 11 rooms, and management requires that it be rented as a unit. This is perfect for large retreat groups. Smaller groups can stay in one of the cottages.
Condominiums
There are a few condominium complexes in Moloka'i, most of them on the West End in Kaluakoi Resort. Paniolo Hale is just before the main turn-off, and the Marc Ke Nani Kai is a few hundred yards in front of the Kaluakoi Hotel. The Kaluakoi Villas, owned by Castle Resorts, are also set on the golf course. Although the two major Hawaiian chains (Aston and Outrigger/Ohana) don’t yet have a presence on the island, Marc Resorts owns one more property, the Molokai Shores, in Kaunakakai.
The Wavecrest Condominiums, located on the East End, are fairly well known and enjoy a good reputation. More’s the pity; all of them are now privately owned, and the property manager no longer rents out units. Some of them are available through individual owners or local real estate companies.
B&Bs
Bed and breakfast establishments are scattered throughout Moloka'i. Most of them boast great locations; the owners take full advantage of Molokai’s natural beauty when promoting the property. Kamalo Plantation Cottage and Kamueli Farms are situated amidst tropical gardens, while the Moanui Beach House is within footsteps of the ocean.
Nearly undistinguishable from the B&Bs—till breakfast time rolls around—are the numerous guest homes on the island. Waialua Beach seems to have more than its fair share of these properties. The Aloha Beach House is a two-bedroom cottage; the Beach House at Wailua is a three-bedroom house that sleeps six people. On the other side of the island is Miller Molokai, a giant four-bedroom property that sleeps up to 12 guests.
Camping
The Moloka'i Ranch offers two campsites that are reputed to be among the most luxurious in the country. In fact, the sites not quite rugged enough to even qualify as camping; however, they're certainly not your average resort room. Both properties feature 'tentalows', unique bungalow-style tents with private bathrooms and laptop computer connections. Interestingly, the tentalows do not have running water; composting toilets are used throughout both properties.
Campgrounds are also located at a few county and state parks. Papohaku Beach Park and One Ali'i Park are in the county park system; contact the County Building at +1 808 553 5141 for permit information. To camp in Pala’au State Park, call the permit office at +1 808 244 4354. It’s also possible to camp in the Moloka'i Forest Reserve for free. Contact the Department of Forestry at +1 808 553 5019.
To get the latest information on private homes or condominiums for rent, contact one of three companies. Vacation Rental Service is a referral service that mostly deals with private homeowners on the East End. The woman who runs it is a helpful, knowledgeable Moloka'i local. She also operates the local cleaning service, and has up-to-the-minute knowledge of vacancies around the island. The two real estate companies on Moloka'i, Friendly Isle Realty and Swenson Island Real Estate, have departments that handle vacation and home rentals. These companies usually have a decent selection of places to rent; Swenson’s Web site is well worth checking out.
While Moloka'i isn't quite as informal as some European towns where local pensione owners meet potential lodgers at the train station, it’s not far off. The island likes to keep its hotel scene low-key, and seems to shun the sort of glitzy tourist attractions that Maui and the Big Island offer by the dozen But it does deserves the nickname "The Friendly Isle." Locals have no qualms about renting out a spare room or cottage to the right tourists; nor do they hesitate to offer information about activities and outdoor attractions. Anyone who loves outdoor activities, likes to chat with perfect strangers, and prefers early mornings to late nights will have an unforgettable experience on this island.
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